California Treats

Spent a few weeks in California with my daughter and her family last month. California is fascinating and I can see why people love it despite the fires, earthquakes, smog and mudslides. Each road brings a new adventure and unique beauty –breathtaking ocean views from twisty mountain roads, giant Sequoia forests, the awesome wonder of the desert – and so much more. I discovered some new places well worth a visit on a trip north from LA with my daughter and grandsons.

Fort Ross, about 100 miles north of San Francisco, was once a Russian fort, a stop off on the way to Alaska. It’s on an inlet of the Pacific that was deep enough to load their ships. I liked the photo ops through decaying fences, the Russian Orthodox chapel and the museum displays of 19th century artifacts. A fairy tale-like kitchen, workshops to make all the metal and wooden tools the fort dwellers needed (no malls in those days) and a room for spinning and making cloth. An arsenal plus cannons intrigued the kids; there was plenty of room to run around too. And trails down to the beach.

On our way back to Burbank, we stopped at the Winchester Mystery House in San Jose. This is a Victorian mansion with a fascinating history. In the late 1800’s, Sara Winchester, married to the heir to the Winchester rifle fortune, lost her only child and was widowed 15 years later. She consulted an occultist who told her that she needed to buy a house (with her millions) and keep building on to it to quiet the spirits of those killed by the Winchester rifle. So she kept hundreds of workers and craftsmen busy night and day for 38 years! The result is windows facing nothing but walls, doors that open to a three story drop, and tiny winding steps to accommodate her arthritis. There’s even a staircase to a ceiling. The genuine Tiffany windows, vintage wall coverings, floors and fireplaces are worth the price of admission. And there are many strange stories about the recluse who lived there. Like the SF earthquake that toppled the top three stories of the mansion and trapped her in her bedroom.

These “treats” can be enjoyed by young and old alike. If you are in the vicinity, look them up.

Lessons I've Learned

In one of her blogs last week, my daughter posed an interesting quiz on learning and self-education and challenged her readers to take the quiz themselves.

What is a memory you have of learning with your Mom?

My Mom took a very active role in our education. She "heard" our lessons every night. My memory improved dramatically under my Mom’s tutelage because if we did not recite the catechism or history answers back to her "perfectly", we were sent off to study "until you know it!" My sister can attest to many homework papers that were torn up because she had crossed out or erased. OK in fairness, a few times she had erased holes in the paper. Maybe my success in school was a direct result of Mom’s encouragement, because she would not settle for less. She taught me to always strive to do my best.

I also learned many other life lessons from her. Like how to be a savvy shopper, hunting out bargains way before it became stylish. I will never forget the trip in-between dress racks to a remote corner in Bloomies to find a lone hidden rack of sales items. Now in those days, it was pretty awesome for us to find something affordable in Bloomingdale’s but Mom managed to find bargains in the classiest places. Just to negotiate her way around that store was admirable to me, who, like many others, finds it a major challenge just to find the exit out of Bloomies!

What is a memory you have of learning with your Dad?

On the meandering car vacations, which brought American history and geography alive for me, my Dad taught me a love of traveling, visiting new places and reading maps! I was not geographically challenged, as many Americans are today, because I had personally visited capitals of states or spent many car hours searching for them on road maps.

Dad also taught me to appreciate and reverence nature. He would point out interesting cloud formations and instruct me to take pictures out of the car window as we traveled the highways to some vacation destination. He never failed to point out sunsets, whether on a fishing expedition upstate or looking out the window from his easy chair. We spent many quiet hours in row boats on lakes, waiting for fish to bite. Now I realize I was learning to observe nature; in a way it was my first lesson in meditation. And it felt so peaceful.

What kind of education do you think you gave yourself?

Like my daughter, I loved to draw when I was a kid. It certainly spurred a lifelong love for art. In school, I did not enjoy history – it seemed to be all about dates and wars. Ho Hum. So after I graduated from college, I took on a project to find out about everyday life in other times. I was especially interested in medieval times and Barbara Tuchman’s classic "A Distant Mirror" got me started. I discovered that history was very interesting indeed and found a different perspective. I especially enjoyed the book by Bonnie S. Anderson and Judith P. Zinsser, two Columbia University professors. "A History of Their Own" approached history from a woman’s point of view, not chronologically but categorically: Women of the Fields, Women of the Churches, Women of the Castles and Manors, etc. I learned that women did yield power even way back when and my love for history was born. As a result, I have a sizable collection of history books, especially Medieval History focusing on everyday life. Any one can get an education by reading. Just ask my granddaughter, Marina!

America the Beautiful

This Independence Day I feel very grateful for being an American. I am so proud of my beautiful country and so grateful that I have seen so much of it. I have fond memories of childhood vacations when my Dad piled the kids in the car and took us on adventures in upstate New York, to Pennsylvania, to Florida and once to Kentucky. I learned so much about the history and geography of America on those travels.

Later I spent vacations in the majestic Adirondacks, meditated on the Hudson and thrilled to the sounds and sights of my hometown, New York City. I know every inch of the Bronx Botanical Gardens and the Bronx Zoo and have gotten lost too many times in magnificent Central Park. My daughter and I traveled the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to San Diego, explored the back roads of California, discovering a new wonder around every bend: Josiah Tree, Yosemite, Mt. Whitney. We stopped our car in Death Valley and got out to experience the sound of silence; it was also on a back road in Death Valley that I witnessed a parade of tarantulas.

Lisa and I once drove up and down the Atlantic coast to the Everglades, seeing the aftermath of Hurricane Andrew, driving through rice paddies in the Carolinas, and watching the moon rise over the ocean from the N.C. shore. In Maine I tasted my first lobster, laughed at puffins flying around their little island near Acadia National Park, and saw a moose along the road.



How blessed I am to have seen so much of this beautiful land! And there’s so much more to see!

My Trip to Italy - The Last Days

The last days – Spoleto and home

On Wednesday after we left Assisi, we stopped at a ceramics factory and picked up last minute unusual and authentic Umbrian souvenirs: pottery, pasta seasoning, olive oil and chocolate. Then a stop in medieval Spoleto; unfortunately our climb to an ancient Roman aqueduct found it closed. We learned that the aqueduct still works – ah, those Romans could really build! Driving back along the autostrada, drinking in the tiny towns atop the mountains and the lush patchwork hillsides, I knew I would really miss Italy. It was hard to say goodbye to Andreas, our superb bus driver. I felt so safe with him, even on the mountain roads in the snow. I feel that my friendship with Sister Pat has deepened on this trip and I treasure the Florentine mini-ceramic picture she gave me, which remind me of our good times together.

On our last night, the hotel outside of Rome appeared to be the most luxurious so far. That should have been my red alert. Despite “adjustments” to the heater, it was the coldest sleep of all. In my clothes under the blankets, I was counting layers instead of sheep and finally got up onto the icy floor to get my snow jacket and hood – it was like a comforter. I think I will only come to Europe during warm seasons.

We arose very early on Thursday and drove through traffic (Rome’s LIE?) to the airport. Margaret, our good shepherd, was there until the last girl got through security. Marina and I exchanged e-mail addresses with our new friends. Finally we were flying home. It was hard to imagine that our adventure was over. Bouncing around in turbulence like a ship in choppy seas, as Marina observed. I am extremely grateful that I made this trip. Marina is the perfect traveling companion.

My Trip to Italy - Days 6 and 7 - San Marino and Assisi

Day 6 and 7 – San Marino and Assisi

When we left Venice on Tuesday we traveled through the Apennine Mountains – it was exhilarating! The twisted beauty of these mountains, pushed and pulled by earthquakes and geological forces, remind me a little of California’s landscape. But in Italy you see medieval towns atop and spilling down the hillsides, a castle tower here, an ancient basilica there. I will miss this wonderful country with its bright green fields and tall cypress trees. And I love tunneling through the mountains.

We visited the republic of San Marino atop Mt. Titano; a country within a country, it dates back to Roman times. It has its own government, stamps, taxes, flag, etc. Very medieval with hills that challenge, twisty alleys, cobbled streets and wonderful shops. We ate at a cave-like café where Marina tried the local cuisine, a rondido – sort of a panini. Oh, I must mention the glorious cioccolatta falda I had in Venice. It was melted chocolate heaven!

We arrived in Assisi after dark. Now it was really cold – we had driven through some brief snow showers. The Hotel Giotto, located in the middle of Assisi atop a hill, treated us to a view of the new town in the valley and its twinkling lights. It took me back 50 years to a college retreat I made at Mt. Alvernia Monastery in Duchess county; I remember a similar view from that hilltop. The Franciscans chose their site well. Back to the hotel: all our hotels have had their good points and their lows. This one had excellent food, lovely rooms, fluffy towels (so welcome after the “kitchen” towels in most bathrooms)….But no heat! I slept in my clothes and a sweater plus 2 blankets but it was not a restful night.

Next morning we rose early to go to Mass and found snow outside our door. After a wrong turn– these medieval towns are hard to figure out in the dark – we found the Basilica of St. Francis. The monks were chanting the morning office in the lower church at the tomb of St. Francis. What a blessed way to end a special trip! I thanked God for such a joyful journey in Italy and prayed for all my family and friends at the resting place of this beloved saint, who lived 800 years ago.

After Mass, the cobbled streets had turned icy so we picked our way very carefully back to the hotel. With the group we returned to the Cathedral to meet our guide, Roger. He was very special, like all the guides, natives of the towns and cities they led us through, all of them so knowledgeable and passionate about their hometowns. But Roger was spiritual as well, a true son of Assisi, a blessed town. The basilica, restored and re-built after the earthquake of 1997, dates back to the 13th or 14th century. Its special features are the frescoes, especially those by Giotto depicting the life of Christ and the life of Francis. I love the Byzantine-like decoration along the gothic arches. How different these Italian gothic cathedrals are from those in France and Germany. Then a tour of the town and the very square, in front of a Roman temple turned church, where Francis stripped naked and cut off his ties to his earthly father.

We saw the cathedral built to honor St. Clare, founder of the Poor Clares, the feminine branch of the Franciscans, and heard the remarkable story of this wise, beautiful, intelligent and deeply spiritual saint. A strong woman, with excellent administrative and organizational skills (could be my patrona), she got what she wanted from the powerful rulers of her day, including popes. We saw on display the original rules of her order, the first written rules of a religious order by a woman. The cathedral also had the original San Damiano cross. Even in the chilling cold, this was a very worthwhile experience. I would love to return to Assisi for a retreat.

My Trip to Italy - Day 6 - Venice

Day 6 – Venice

On Monday we were off via bus to the pier, where we joined other EF Tours on the ferry to Venezia! We sat with another group that turned out to be from Harrison HS in Westchester. One girl even attends the same church as Marina. It’s a small world after all …

I love Venice. No cars or bikes on the cobbled streets to run you down. Many romantic bridges to cross over the canals – we actually walked over 7 of the 118 islands that make up Venice. And perfect weather: sunny and cold and dry, no flooding in Piazza San Marco today. We had a tour of Venice with Carlo, who pointed out a palazzo that his grandfather had once lived in but missed an opportunity to purchase. It was lovely with its Byzantine, Medieval and Renaissance features: windows, columns, etc. It is so expensive to live in Venice that the population of residents has decreased from 160,000 to 60,000 in a few decades. But there are hundreds – thousands during Carnevale – of tourists that flood Venice, a city rich in culture, history, art and fun. I liked the Venetians – of all ages – dressed in costume and masks, strolling through the streets and squares, and posing serenely for photos. The costumes were gorgeous (you can see pictures on “my daughter’s blog”) and couples were color coordinated. Even some silvery prehistoric “birds” or raptors on stilts came by to delight us.

Of course, the main feature of Piazza San Marco is the basilica of San Marco, the apostle Mark; his bones supposedly reside there. A tall column with his symbolic winged lion atop is at the entrance to the piazza. The basilica is beautiful with mosaics on the exterior and dozens of columns to show off Venetian conquests throughout the ages. We shopped for masks – so many to choose from, some are works of art. We saw a glass blowing demonstration at the Murano glass works and got genuine Murano glass souvenirs, with certificates of authenticity.

Then a highlight of our day – Marina and I took a gondola ride. It is so peaceful, quietly gliding along narrow canals, under arched bridges, reflecting the glimmering light of the water. You can see the high water erosion of the walls. Most of these buildings have peeling facades; you see the bricks peeking out. Then you emerge into the Grand Canal. Wow! But the decay is real and Venice is sinking. They have plans – the Moses project – to stop the flooding. But who knows? Venice, a proud, powerful state for many centuries and contributor to so much of civilization: glass, shipbuilding, government, commerce, etc. Who knows if one day it may disappear to the bottom of the lagoon. How lucky I am to be able to experience this city.

In the afternoon we toured the Doge’s Palace. We had plenty of time to view the extraordinary art work – the golden staircase, paintings, a Titian fresco of St. Christopher. And the institutional halls which housed the councils and senate that ruled Venice in its glory days. At the end of the tour, a visit to the prisons, or should I say dungeons, where Casanova was once interred. Before we left Venice, Marina had a chance to call her Mom and Dad and tell them about her adventures. Wish we could call home every day but most hotel phones would not accept our calling cards. The next morning Marina and I walked to the beach and saw the Adriatic. I hope that one day she will have a chance to return to Venice – in the summer!

My Trip to Italy - Day 5 - Traveling through Tuscany

Day 5 – Traveling through Tuscany

Sunday, February 15th was a travel day – restful and rewarding. It is lovely, even in winter, traveling through Tuscany with its stately cypress trees, villas and olive groves. Then suddenly you see the Alps on the horizon and soon you have these ancient snow capped mountains as a traveling companion. A surprise stop in Verona, a cute little town with narrow streets and alleys, a large town square surrounded by medieval and renaissance buildings and an arena, dating back to Roman times, though smaller than the Colosseum. The big attraction here is Juliet’s balcony. Under the arch leading to the small square with her statue and balcony, hundreds of lovers have left their names, with felt tipped pens. Similar to Florence near the Ponte Vecchio, where they leave locks on a chain and throw the key in the Arno to “lock up their love forever”.

We arrived at our hotel, located on a seaside Adriatic Beach. Our hotels have all had their pluses and minuses. This one was a 4 floor walk up to our room. It was hard even with Marina’s help. No tub, just a shower stall. No soap, lucky I brought my own. But it was warm! And this hotel had the best restaurant so far; I enjoyed the dinners with fresh salads and green beans! The next day we would be off to Venice.

My Trip to Italy - Day 4 - Pisa

Day 4 – Pisa

Good news - the new room was warm and toasty. I love the deep European tubs – what a treat to take a relaxing soak. Another delightful day, with bright blue skies and crisp cool air for our short ride to Pisa – on the west coast. Our guide Luisa showed us the field of miracles, the cathedral, bapistry, cemetery, and of course, the famous bell tower, the leaning tower of Pisa. All of these structures date back to the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries. Unfortunately, most were destroyed by fire or bombed and much of the original art was lost. However, out of suffering comes blessing. When the frescoes in the cemetery building were destroyed in World War II, they removed them and discovered original sinope – sketches by the artists, not their students.

We also got a science lesson on why the tower leans: first it is too heavy – all these structures are built of marble; columns, stairs, walls. Second, the ground, near a river, is too soft. They actually straightened the tower by 36 cm a few years back. It is rather impressive and great fun. (See Marina’s pictures on “my daughter’s blog). The cathedral was so beautiful; I loved the baroque ceiling, which the Medicis donated after the fire. Actually, they conquered Pisa and took responsibility for restoring the cathedral.

The gypsies in Pisa were especially troubling. One came up to me and when I ignored her, she grabbed my arm and my pocketbook. Luckily I have my New York smarts. We’ve discovered, with Margaret’s guidance, cafeterias where there are delicious choices (veggies and zuppa) for lunch.

After Pisa, we returned to Florence and visited the Academie des Fines Artes, where we saw Michelangelo’s David, the real thing! This exquisite work of art, with its beauty, hugeness and detail, was overwhelming. I felt grateful for the gift of such genius (despite his cantankerous personality), and that so many artists and architects were able to use their gifts to create such masterpieces. And now, I have the opportunity to appreciate their work and to grow from the experience. It is humbling.

I do feel rested, restored and relaxed here in Florence. We went to Mass in the Duomo and I had another chance to soak in the wonder of this magnificent cathedral – inside and out. The angels around the portals have expressions of such terror. The trimmings are curly and scallop-like but just a delight. Even the columns are decorated this way. All the space is covered with marble decorations, coats of arms, stylized flowers, etc. Superb. Loved Florence and felt so fortunate to have come on this trip, and especially to share it with Marina. And with my good friend, Sister Pat.

My Trip to Italy - Day 3 - Florence

On Friday the 13th we left Rome and began our journey to Firenze, Florence: city of flowers, city of the Medici’s, Michelangelo, Puccini, Da Vinci, Giotto, Galileo and so many other geniuses of art, literature, music and science. It was a lovely ride on our new bus, passing medieval towns on hilltops, savoring the beauty of Tuscany, even in winter repose. Florence is a gorgeous city on the Arno River. It gives one a sense of calm and tranquility, especially after the immense grandeur and bustle of Rome. The river was smooth under a bright blue sky. A view from the Ponte Vecchio disclosed mountains in the background and cream and rust colored terra cotta homes on the banks. All buildings must be painted in earth colors and it gives a perception of comforting order and security, not to mention being aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

We began our tour at the Piazza della Signoria, site of the famous clock tower of the Palazzo Vecchio and Galleria degli Uffizi, an art museum to end all museums, home of the great Renaissance masterpieces. And this is the downside of a tour – no time to explore a treasure like the Uffizi. Some day … Also in the piazza were brilliant sculptures: the Neptune Fountain (no matter what Michelangelo thought, to me it was awesome), Roman statues, Perseus with the head of Medusa, etc. Then on the way to lunch, a young man invited us to a cafeteria, where we enjoyed a nutritious lunch (I was missing my veggies!) and a pleasant chat with him about New York. A local tour guide took us to the Duomo. I am in awe of this cathedral. So simple inside but look up at the dome (designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in the 14th century) with its frescoes! Wow! But outside is another story. I have not seen a cathedral so decorated on the exterior – like a decorated cake. I loved the colorful exterior and the terra cotta color of the dome, so different from other cathedrals.

Next we witnessed a leather demonstration at the Leonardo Leather Works. Florence is noted for a leather jewel box given to Caterina de Medici for her wedding. Marina and I got some souvenirs there. We wandered along the river as she took hundreds of photos, which you can see on “My daughter’s blog” (link on sidebar). Seeing the modern day artisans at work seemed so right in this city. We are connecting with the Cathedral HS girls, who are great fun and today attracted some local Italian teens in the piazza for giggles and a photo op. At dinner Marina usually joins the teens, especially Charlene and Maria, and I sit with Sister Pat, Margaret, Kathy and Sr. Eileen – new friends for me. Our room at a nearby hotel was big and lovely but COLD! Woke up freezing, despite 2 blankets, a heavy sweater and the spread. Couldn’t work the Italian shower either and it was cold in the bathroom. So we spoiled Americans changed rooms, hoping that the heat works better in #116. Anyway, I slept well in the cold and had some very vivid dreams. I end this account waiting to leave for Pisa. It seems the brand new bus broke down. Ah, adventure.

My Trip to Italy - Day 2 - Roma

Day 2 - Roma

After the Vatican, we were off on a tour of the center of Rome: the Colosseum, the Piazza di Venezia, with its ornate (wedding cake) monument to Victor Emmanuel II, the first King of Italy. Every city in Italy has 2 statues: one of Victor Emmanuel II and one of Garibaldi. But Rome's monument is immense, like everything about Rome. I loved Francesco’s tour of the Forum, especially the story of the Vestal Virgins’ temple – they were powerful women; and how hard could it be to keep a light burning? I enjoyed his explanations of our words and their derivations from right here in Rome, especially the origin of the word “forum”. Francesco had so many great stories: e.g. why the Pope has Swiss Guards and the real story of the history of Rome. After dinner, we went on a night tour of Rome, so beautiful all lit up. Especially the dome of St. Peter’s illuminated and softly floating above, reflected in the light, a flock of birds.

There are great photos of our trip on "my daughter's blog" - click on to the link on my sidebar.

My Trip to Italy - Day 2 - Vatican City

Day 2 – Vatican City

The second day we were on the go from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. An exhausting and exhilarating day! I love Roma and its ancient feel. Everything is so huge – maybe it’s the presence of thousands of years of civilization – one after the other: Etruscans; Romans: Republic and Empire; Christian Rome; kingdoms and finally, very recently, the united Italian nation. I am learning so much about Italy’s heritage, which is our own heritage.

And what stories! Thanks to our remarkable guides, Margaret and today, Francesco, we are grasping what a proud history this country has. So through the walls (I love how Rome and Vatican City are surrounded by ancient walls) to Vatican City, the smallest country in Europe. The Popes used to control a much larger country through the middle ages till very recently – 1929. In fact the other day on February 11th they celebrated the 80 year anniversary of the agreement that established their present territory.

Francesco took over as we entered the Vatican Museum. This is the advantage of a great guide. So informative, he made all the works of art, as well as the history of the Vatican, come alive. Our “whispers” (techy listening devices) enable us to hear the lecture in the midst of buzzing crowds. Marina took lots of pictures of the priceless artwork the Church has collected over the centuries. There were times I shuddered over the apparent rampant materialism of so many popes, so un-Christlike. But who am I to judge? The good news is so many commissioned masterpieces (like the Sistine Chapel) and so many works of art preserved and now shared with us all to appreciate and savor.

Francesco explained the stories behind the Greek statues, the paintings, the mosaics, the tapestries and the frescoes. I felt overwhelmed by such a wealth of creative genius. He spent a lot of time on Michelangelo (who lived to age 89!) and Rafael who died tragically at age 36. Both were prodigies and recognized early in life by wealthy patrons. And we inherit their magnificent work as a result. What a treat to view the Rafael rooms – I think he is definitely a favorite for me. You can see his evolution in style. My favorite Rafael is the painting of the risen Christ, softly glowing in white, surrounded by saints – so hopeful and such a contrast to Michelangelo’s last judgment in the Sistine Chapel which shows his progression from youthful idealism to older pessimism, colored by the sad suffering of the times. That fresco is very scary – not many are saved in this “last judgment”. Interesting detail: Michelangelo paints the face of one Hell dweller with the likeness of a Cardinal who gave him agita when he was not so powerful an artist. Payback is rewarding.

I liked the Sistine Chapel much more than last time I was here – Francesco’s insights make a big difference. He pointed out that God is painted in against a background like a “brain” showing his gift of intelligence to his creation – man. But I saw something more. Encasing the “brain” is a red shape, which to me symbolized a palate: creativity, another gift to man.

After the museums we visited St. Peter’s Basilica, which knocks me out by its huge space, colossal statues, and remarkable mosaics. Marina took many photos of the Pieta. One thing, I feel too rushed. Sometimes I don’t have time to breathe, much less spend time savoring all these treasures. Lucky teens who are traveling to Europe so early in life and will be able to come back and spend more time with these treasures.

Memories: the Holy Spirit window in marble that acts like stained glass; the Bernini columns embracing St. Peter’s Square; the fountains backlit by the afternoon sun. A gorgeous Roman day, unlike rainy yesterday. Loved lunch in the Vatican cafeteria – had zuppa and artichokes and a Coke Light. Bought lots of medals which they blessed at the Vatican and sent to our hotel.

My Trip to Italy - Day 1

My Trip to Italy

This blog starts with an ending. Marina and I returned home from Italy yesterday. And what a wonderful experience it was. Starting today my blogs for the next week or so will be all about our trip, as taken from my journal.

Feb. 11th Well here I am in Rome. With Marina. After hectic packing and re-packing we got to JFK in plenty of time. Sister Pat introduced Marina to Charlene and Maria; they hit it off immediately, chatting and giggling. The CHS girls are so curious about Marina’s being homeschooled.

It was a nice flight via Alitalia although no room for feet or to rest your head – so I got no sleep. Arrived very tired but we were off on a tour of Rome right away. Crazy weather: sun, clouds, rain, hail – like a cold April. Noticed how the cars are so much smaller here. (Those Smart cars are so cute!) Beautiful piazzas and ancient buildings where people live in apartments. Our walking tour included: Piazza Navona with Bernini’s spectacular fountains, the Fontana del Moro and the Fontana dei Quatro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers). You can check out my daughters blog (see sidebar) for pictures. I loved the church of St. Agnes in this square with its fantastic artwork and decorated ceiling.

Margaret, our tour guide, is so good, leading us through back alleys and clueing us in on bargains and practical advice. Visited the Pantheon and this is just awesome. A 2000 year old structure, completed by the Emperor Hadrian in A.D. 128, it is in great shape and simply breathtaking. It has the largest domed ceiling, larger than St. Peter’s and is a masterpiece of Roman engineering. I liked the opening hole in the center of the dome that lets in light.

Visited the Spanish Steps and thought of my last trip here with my friend Arleen back in 1992. I even went back to one of our old haunts – McDonalds, with a classic Roman motif. Still the only free toilet around! Memorable moments of our first day: Lunch guy giving us a “break” and a gelato; the girls taking pictures with the local carbonieri (state police); the obelisk and Trevi Fountain. All the sculptures are so gorgeous…and huge. My impression of Rome: ancient, beautiful and huge!

My Trip to Italy - Anticipation

Tomorrow we are off to Italy! Thanks to the invitation of my good friend Sister Pat and the Cathedral HS Travel Club. When I return, I will have lots of stories to share. Here is the itinerary:

Rome - A tour as soon as we arrive of the Spanish Steps, which I remember well from my first trip to Italy. Next day, a visit to Vatican City, St. Peter's, and the Sistine Chapel. Then a tour of Imperial Rome and the Colosseum, plus the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.

Florence - A guided tour of the Piazza della Signoria, Uffizi Palace, the Ponte Vecchio and the Chiesa di Santa Croce. How exciting to see the Duomo, Giotto's campanile (bell tower), and Ghiberti's famous bronze doors, the Gates of Paradise.

Pisa - Of course we will see the Leaning Tower, as well as the cathedral.

Venice - Off to Venice and St. Mark's Square, the Grand Canal, the 324 foot campanile, the famous clock, and the Doges' Palace. We'll also see a glass blowing demonstration. By the way, it's Carnivale!

Assisi - So happy to be visiting the birthplace of St. Francis and St. Clare. We'll see the Basilica of St. Francis with Giotto's wonderful frescoes.

Spoleto - We explore a medieval town and then back to Rome. And next day, we fly back home!

Summers on Wheels: part two

When I had my own family, summer car vacations were more about the journey than the destination. We stopped often along the way and discovered all sorts of surprises. But another reason for long meandering car trips was the many lemon cars we owned. The kids will never forget our “Fred Flintstone” VW 411 – they had to keep their legs up on the seat in the back because there was a hole in the floor, where they watched the road roll by.

Once my husband and I visited the Montreal Worlds Fair in a car that barely did 20 mph on hills – and we had to drive through the Adirondacks! On the way home on a Sunday night, we couldn’t find an open gas station. We ran out of gas on the Northway near midnight as huge tractor-trailers whizzed by. A kindly truck driver stopped and drove us to a small town gas station he knew, then proceeded to wake up the proprietor to pump us gas, which was probably under $1/gallon back then.

But our most memorable adventure was spending a night sleeping in one of our junkier cars in an upstate New York gas station. After the mechanic got it running and we were on the way home, the car conked out for good and we hitched hiked on Route 17 with the three little ones. A man who was moving from Binghamton to Poughkeepsie – his car packed with possessions – picked us up. Enroute we witnessed a nasty motorcycle accident and just avoided running over the victims. After stopping to help, we barely made it to Poughkeepsie in time to catch the last train to NYC. We arrived in Harlem at midnight and walked across 125th Street to get the subway home.

Still later, I took many trips on wheels with my daughter Lisa. We traveled back from the Florida Keys along Route 1 - stopping at Cape Kennedy; driving through rice paddies, sometimes via ferries, in the Carolinas; and discovering the outerbanks and Kitty Hawk along the way. When we explored the back roads of Maine, we came across a Mama moose and her baby. Lisa and I had many wonderful California adventures on wheels. Each road presents a more magnificent vista - earthquake tortured rock formations; Dr. Seuss-like Joshua Trees in the desert; breathtaking mountain views; tarantulas crossing the road on a back route out of Death Valley; and of course, the Pacific Coast Highway PCH 1, with its unobstructed view of the Pacific.

For us, it’s all about the journey.

Summers on Wheels: part one

Many of our summer vacations were spent in the family car. My Dad always had a well-planned itinerary in mind. He would pack my Mom and the 3, 4, and then 5 kids in the car – no seat belts or A/C in those days – and off we’d go for two weeks of adventure. It’s funny the memories that stick. Like the accident we had in Erie, PA when a car’s brakes failed and plowed into us at an intersection. Or the trip to Cleveland, OH that resulted in a pen pal relationship with one of my distant Hungarian cousins. Or meeting another Hungarian cousin, Tibi, a gifted commercial artist in Ottawa, Canada.

We took a long trip one year to St. Petersburg, FL to visit my Aunt Helen; I can still taste those Hungarian crepes she made. On the way, we stopped at cabins or the early version of motels. I remember one evening in the 1950’s on the lawn of a South Carolina motel. I was listening to a conversation about segregation that my Dad and the motel owner were having. His argument for “white only” motels was that integrated motels would lead to interracial marriage. He pointed at me – “You wouldn’t want your little girl to marry a colored boy!” And at my tender age, I just couldn’t understand how a motel that welcomed all races could lead to my marriage; I couldn’t even imagine getting married! Later I noticed the separate hospital entrances and water fountains – “Whites only”. It made an impression and seemed strange, sad to me.

Those trips were so educational. Geography comes alive when you actually set foot in a capital city. My love of maps began on those trips. Having grown up in New York City, the other “big” cities of states paled in comparison. “This is a city?” was my reaction. But I discovered that each city was unique – like Charleston, SC so beautiful and clean, and Lexington, KY with its wonderful horse farms. When we finally made it to Florida, after several nights in sweltering cabins, I was so looking forward to a swim in the Gulf of Mexico. To my disappointment, it was not refreshing at all – more like soaking in a hot tub! Another disappointment – I so wanted to see the legendary Fountain of Youth that led Ponce de Leon to St. Augustine, FL. When we arrived, it cost too much money for the whole family to visit, so we just stared at the gates. I made up for this with my credit cards when I took my grown up vacations many years later.

At some point during every summer car vacation, we kids would get on Dad’s nerves (how many games of license plates can you play!) and he would scream at us, threaten beatings when he stopped the car, and vow “No more vacations!” Lucky for us, it never came to pass. And the next year, we’d be off on another adventure.