Day 2 – Vatican City
The second day we were on the go from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. An exhausting and exhilarating day! I love Roma and its ancient feel. Everything is so huge – maybe it’s the presence of thousands of years of civilization – one after the other: Etruscans; Romans: Republic and Empire; Christian Rome; kingdoms and finally, very recently, the united Italian nation. I am learning so much about Italy’s heritage, which is our own heritage.
And what stories! Thanks to our remarkable guides, Margaret and today, Francesco, we are grasping what a proud history this country has. So through the walls (I love how Rome and Vatican City are surrounded by ancient walls) to Vatican City, the smallest country in Europe. The Popes used to control a much larger country through the middle ages till very recently – 1929. In fact the other day on February 11th they celebrated the 80 year anniversary of the agreement that established their present territory.
Francesco took over as we entered the Vatican Museum. This is the advantage of a great guide. So informative, he made all the works of art, as well as the history of the Vatican, come alive. Our “whispers” (techy listening devices) enable us to hear the lecture in the midst of buzzing crowds. Marina took lots of pictures of the priceless artwork the Church has collected over the centuries. There were times I shuddered over the apparent rampant materialism of so many popes, so un-Christlike. But who am I to judge? The good news is so many commissioned masterpieces (like the Sistine Chapel) and so many works of art preserved and now shared with us all to appreciate and savor.
Francesco explained the stories behind the Greek statues, the paintings, the mosaics, the tapestries and the frescoes. I felt overwhelmed by such a wealth of creative genius. He spent a lot of time on Michelangelo (who lived to age 89!) and Rafael who died tragically at age 36. Both were prodigies and recognized early in life by wealthy patrons. And we inherit their magnificent work as a result. What a treat to view the Rafael rooms – I think he is definitely a favorite for me. You can see his evolution in style. My favorite Rafael is the painting of the risen Christ, softly glowing in white, surrounded by saints – so hopeful and such a contrast to Michelangelo’s last judgment in the Sistine Chapel which shows his progression from youthful idealism to older pessimism, colored by the sad suffering of the times. That fresco is very scary – not many are saved in this “last judgment”. Interesting detail: Michelangelo paints the face of one Hell dweller with the likeness of a Cardinal who gave him agita when he was not so powerful an artist. Payback is rewarding.
I liked the Sistine Chapel much more than last time I was here – Francesco’s insights make a big difference. He pointed out that God is painted in against a background like a “brain” showing his gift of intelligence to his creation – man. But I saw something more. Encasing the “brain” is a red shape, which to me symbolized a palate: creativity, another gift to man.
After the museums we visited St. Peter’s Basilica, which knocks me out by its huge space, colossal statues, and remarkable mosaics. Marina took many photos of the Pieta. One thing, I feel too rushed. Sometimes I don’t have time to breathe, much less spend time savoring all these treasures. Lucky teens who are traveling to Europe so early in life and will be able to come back and spend more time with these treasures.
Memories: the Holy Spirit window in marble that acts like stained glass; the Bernini columns embracing St. Peter’s Square; the fountains backlit by the afternoon sun. A gorgeous Roman day, unlike rainy yesterday. Loved lunch in the Vatican cafeteria – had zuppa and artichokes and a Coke Light. Bought lots of medals which they blessed at the Vatican and sent to our hotel.
