My Trip to Italy - Day 6 - Venice

Day 6 – Venice

On Monday we were off via bus to the pier, where we joined other EF Tours on the ferry to Venezia! We sat with another group that turned out to be from Harrison HS in Westchester. One girl even attends the same church as Marina. It’s a small world after all …

I love Venice. No cars or bikes on the cobbled streets to run you down. Many romantic bridges to cross over the canals – we actually walked over 7 of the 118 islands that make up Venice. And perfect weather: sunny and cold and dry, no flooding in Piazza San Marco today. We had a tour of Venice with Carlo, who pointed out a palazzo that his grandfather had once lived in but missed an opportunity to purchase. It was lovely with its Byzantine, Medieval and Renaissance features: windows, columns, etc. It is so expensive to live in Venice that the population of residents has decreased from 160,000 to 60,000 in a few decades. But there are hundreds – thousands during Carnevale – of tourists that flood Venice, a city rich in culture, history, art and fun. I liked the Venetians – of all ages – dressed in costume and masks, strolling through the streets and squares, and posing serenely for photos. The costumes were gorgeous (you can see pictures on “my daughter’s blog”) and couples were color coordinated. Even some silvery prehistoric “birds” or raptors on stilts came by to delight us.

Of course, the main feature of Piazza San Marco is the basilica of San Marco, the apostle Mark; his bones supposedly reside there. A tall column with his symbolic winged lion atop is at the entrance to the piazza. The basilica is beautiful with mosaics on the exterior and dozens of columns to show off Venetian conquests throughout the ages. We shopped for masks – so many to choose from, some are works of art. We saw a glass blowing demonstration at the Murano glass works and got genuine Murano glass souvenirs, with certificates of authenticity.

Then a highlight of our day – Marina and I took a gondola ride. It is so peaceful, quietly gliding along narrow canals, under arched bridges, reflecting the glimmering light of the water. You can see the high water erosion of the walls. Most of these buildings have peeling facades; you see the bricks peeking out. Then you emerge into the Grand Canal. Wow! But the decay is real and Venice is sinking. They have plans – the Moses project – to stop the flooding. But who knows? Venice, a proud, powerful state for many centuries and contributor to so much of civilization: glass, shipbuilding, government, commerce, etc. Who knows if one day it may disappear to the bottom of the lagoon. How lucky I am to be able to experience this city.

In the afternoon we toured the Doge’s Palace. We had plenty of time to view the extraordinary art work – the golden staircase, paintings, a Titian fresco of St. Christopher. And the institutional halls which housed the councils and senate that ruled Venice in its glory days. At the end of the tour, a visit to the prisons, or should I say dungeons, where Casanova was once interred. Before we left Venice, Marina had a chance to call her Mom and Dad and tell them about her adventures. Wish we could call home every day but most hotel phones would not accept our calling cards. The next morning Marina and I walked to the beach and saw the Adriatic. I hope that one day she will have a chance to return to Venice – in the summer!

My Trip to Italy - Day 5 - Traveling through Tuscany

Day 5 – Traveling through Tuscany

Sunday, February 15th was a travel day – restful and rewarding. It is lovely, even in winter, traveling through Tuscany with its stately cypress trees, villas and olive groves. Then suddenly you see the Alps on the horizon and soon you have these ancient snow capped mountains as a traveling companion. A surprise stop in Verona, a cute little town with narrow streets and alleys, a large town square surrounded by medieval and renaissance buildings and an arena, dating back to Roman times, though smaller than the Colosseum. The big attraction here is Juliet’s balcony. Under the arch leading to the small square with her statue and balcony, hundreds of lovers have left their names, with felt tipped pens. Similar to Florence near the Ponte Vecchio, where they leave locks on a chain and throw the key in the Arno to “lock up their love forever”.

We arrived at our hotel, located on a seaside Adriatic Beach. Our hotels have all had their pluses and minuses. This one was a 4 floor walk up to our room. It was hard even with Marina’s help. No tub, just a shower stall. No soap, lucky I brought my own. But it was warm! And this hotel had the best restaurant so far; I enjoyed the dinners with fresh salads and green beans! The next day we would be off to Venice.

My Trip to Italy - Day 4 - Pisa

Day 4 – Pisa

Good news - the new room was warm and toasty. I love the deep European tubs – what a treat to take a relaxing soak. Another delightful day, with bright blue skies and crisp cool air for our short ride to Pisa – on the west coast. Our guide Luisa showed us the field of miracles, the cathedral, bapistry, cemetery, and of course, the famous bell tower, the leaning tower of Pisa. All of these structures date back to the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries. Unfortunately, most were destroyed by fire or bombed and much of the original art was lost. However, out of suffering comes blessing. When the frescoes in the cemetery building were destroyed in World War II, they removed them and discovered original sinope – sketches by the artists, not their students.

We also got a science lesson on why the tower leans: first it is too heavy – all these structures are built of marble; columns, stairs, walls. Second, the ground, near a river, is too soft. They actually straightened the tower by 36 cm a few years back. It is rather impressive and great fun. (See Marina’s pictures on “my daughter’s blog). The cathedral was so beautiful; I loved the baroque ceiling, which the Medicis donated after the fire. Actually, they conquered Pisa and took responsibility for restoring the cathedral.

The gypsies in Pisa were especially troubling. One came up to me and when I ignored her, she grabbed my arm and my pocketbook. Luckily I have my New York smarts. We’ve discovered, with Margaret’s guidance, cafeterias where there are delicious choices (veggies and zuppa) for lunch.

After Pisa, we returned to Florence and visited the Academie des Fines Artes, where we saw Michelangelo’s David, the real thing! This exquisite work of art, with its beauty, hugeness and detail, was overwhelming. I felt grateful for the gift of such genius (despite his cantankerous personality), and that so many artists and architects were able to use their gifts to create such masterpieces. And now, I have the opportunity to appreciate their work and to grow from the experience. It is humbling.

I do feel rested, restored and relaxed here in Florence. We went to Mass in the Duomo and I had another chance to soak in the wonder of this magnificent cathedral – inside and out. The angels around the portals have expressions of such terror. The trimmings are curly and scallop-like but just a delight. Even the columns are decorated this way. All the space is covered with marble decorations, coats of arms, stylized flowers, etc. Superb. Loved Florence and felt so fortunate to have come on this trip, and especially to share it with Marina. And with my good friend, Sister Pat.

My Trip to Italy - Day 3 - Florence

On Friday the 13th we left Rome and began our journey to Firenze, Florence: city of flowers, city of the Medici’s, Michelangelo, Puccini, Da Vinci, Giotto, Galileo and so many other geniuses of art, literature, music and science. It was a lovely ride on our new bus, passing medieval towns on hilltops, savoring the beauty of Tuscany, even in winter repose. Florence is a gorgeous city on the Arno River. It gives one a sense of calm and tranquility, especially after the immense grandeur and bustle of Rome. The river was smooth under a bright blue sky. A view from the Ponte Vecchio disclosed mountains in the background and cream and rust colored terra cotta homes on the banks. All buildings must be painted in earth colors and it gives a perception of comforting order and security, not to mention being aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

We began our tour at the Piazza della Signoria, site of the famous clock tower of the Palazzo Vecchio and Galleria degli Uffizi, an art museum to end all museums, home of the great Renaissance masterpieces. And this is the downside of a tour – no time to explore a treasure like the Uffizi. Some day … Also in the piazza were brilliant sculptures: the Neptune Fountain (no matter what Michelangelo thought, to me it was awesome), Roman statues, Perseus with the head of Medusa, etc. Then on the way to lunch, a young man invited us to a cafeteria, where we enjoyed a nutritious lunch (I was missing my veggies!) and a pleasant chat with him about New York. A local tour guide took us to the Duomo. I am in awe of this cathedral. So simple inside but look up at the dome (designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in the 14th century) with its frescoes! Wow! But outside is another story. I have not seen a cathedral so decorated on the exterior – like a decorated cake. I loved the colorful exterior and the terra cotta color of the dome, so different from other cathedrals.

Next we witnessed a leather demonstration at the Leonardo Leather Works. Florence is noted for a leather jewel box given to Caterina de Medici for her wedding. Marina and I got some souvenirs there. We wandered along the river as she took hundreds of photos, which you can see on “My daughter’s blog” (link on sidebar). Seeing the modern day artisans at work seemed so right in this city. We are connecting with the Cathedral HS girls, who are great fun and today attracted some local Italian teens in the piazza for giggles and a photo op. At dinner Marina usually joins the teens, especially Charlene and Maria, and I sit with Sister Pat, Margaret, Kathy and Sr. Eileen – new friends for me. Our room at a nearby hotel was big and lovely but COLD! Woke up freezing, despite 2 blankets, a heavy sweater and the spread. Couldn’t work the Italian shower either and it was cold in the bathroom. So we spoiled Americans changed rooms, hoping that the heat works better in #116. Anyway, I slept well in the cold and had some very vivid dreams. I end this account waiting to leave for Pisa. It seems the brand new bus broke down. Ah, adventure.

My Trip to Italy - A Poem

Some thoughts upon leaving the hotel enroute to Vatican City: I love these old buildings with their peeling facades, broken yet still standing, with years and years of living packed into their walls. There is beauty in their decay; strength in their crumbling; wisdom in their silent reflection of past glory. And all this while hosting yet another new generation of tenants, who will add yet another chapter to their story. Of course, it inspired a poem.

Old Walls

I love old walls
draped in greenery
their peeling faces
squinting out of past pain
broken but never vanquished.

Smothered in stories
heavy with hope
they smile indulgently
at another new age.

History lies buried
beneath their feet.
Layer after layer
speak volumes of
glory and despair.

Yet old walls survive
as witness
to one more
display of
magnificence
that is
Rome.

© E.M. Ramos 2/27/2009

My Trip to Italy - Day 2 - Roma

Day 2 - Roma

After the Vatican, we were off on a tour of the center of Rome: the Colosseum, the Piazza di Venezia, with its ornate (wedding cake) monument to Victor Emmanuel II, the first King of Italy. Every city in Italy has 2 statues: one of Victor Emmanuel II and one of Garibaldi. But Rome's monument is immense, like everything about Rome. I loved Francesco’s tour of the Forum, especially the story of the Vestal Virgins’ temple – they were powerful women; and how hard could it be to keep a light burning? I enjoyed his explanations of our words and their derivations from right here in Rome, especially the origin of the word “forum”. Francesco had so many great stories: e.g. why the Pope has Swiss Guards and the real story of the history of Rome. After dinner, we went on a night tour of Rome, so beautiful all lit up. Especially the dome of St. Peter’s illuminated and softly floating above, reflected in the light, a flock of birds.

There are great photos of our trip on "my daughter's blog" - click on to the link on my sidebar.

My Trip to Italy - Day 2 - Vatican City

Day 2 – Vatican City

The second day we were on the go from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. An exhausting and exhilarating day! I love Roma and its ancient feel. Everything is so huge – maybe it’s the presence of thousands of years of civilization – one after the other: Etruscans; Romans: Republic and Empire; Christian Rome; kingdoms and finally, very recently, the united Italian nation. I am learning so much about Italy’s heritage, which is our own heritage.

And what stories! Thanks to our remarkable guides, Margaret and today, Francesco, we are grasping what a proud history this country has. So through the walls (I love how Rome and Vatican City are surrounded by ancient walls) to Vatican City, the smallest country in Europe. The Popes used to control a much larger country through the middle ages till very recently – 1929. In fact the other day on February 11th they celebrated the 80 year anniversary of the agreement that established their present territory.

Francesco took over as we entered the Vatican Museum. This is the advantage of a great guide. So informative, he made all the works of art, as well as the history of the Vatican, come alive. Our “whispers” (techy listening devices) enable us to hear the lecture in the midst of buzzing crowds. Marina took lots of pictures of the priceless artwork the Church has collected over the centuries. There were times I shuddered over the apparent rampant materialism of so many popes, so un-Christlike. But who am I to judge? The good news is so many commissioned masterpieces (like the Sistine Chapel) and so many works of art preserved and now shared with us all to appreciate and savor.

Francesco explained the stories behind the Greek statues, the paintings, the mosaics, the tapestries and the frescoes. I felt overwhelmed by such a wealth of creative genius. He spent a lot of time on Michelangelo (who lived to age 89!) and Rafael who died tragically at age 36. Both were prodigies and recognized early in life by wealthy patrons. And we inherit their magnificent work as a result. What a treat to view the Rafael rooms – I think he is definitely a favorite for me. You can see his evolution in style. My favorite Rafael is the painting of the risen Christ, softly glowing in white, surrounded by saints – so hopeful and such a contrast to Michelangelo’s last judgment in the Sistine Chapel which shows his progression from youthful idealism to older pessimism, colored by the sad suffering of the times. That fresco is very scary – not many are saved in this “last judgment”. Interesting detail: Michelangelo paints the face of one Hell dweller with the likeness of a Cardinal who gave him agita when he was not so powerful an artist. Payback is rewarding.

I liked the Sistine Chapel much more than last time I was here – Francesco’s insights make a big difference. He pointed out that God is painted in against a background like a “brain” showing his gift of intelligence to his creation – man. But I saw something more. Encasing the “brain” is a red shape, which to me symbolized a palate: creativity, another gift to man.

After the museums we visited St. Peter’s Basilica, which knocks me out by its huge space, colossal statues, and remarkable mosaics. Marina took many photos of the Pieta. One thing, I feel too rushed. Sometimes I don’t have time to breathe, much less spend time savoring all these treasures. Lucky teens who are traveling to Europe so early in life and will be able to come back and spend more time with these treasures.

Memories: the Holy Spirit window in marble that acts like stained glass; the Bernini columns embracing St. Peter’s Square; the fountains backlit by the afternoon sun. A gorgeous Roman day, unlike rainy yesterday. Loved lunch in the Vatican cafeteria – had zuppa and artichokes and a Coke Light. Bought lots of medals which they blessed at the Vatican and sent to our hotel.

My Trip to Italy - Day 1

My Trip to Italy

This blog starts with an ending. Marina and I returned home from Italy yesterday. And what a wonderful experience it was. Starting today my blogs for the next week or so will be all about our trip, as taken from my journal.

Feb. 11th Well here I am in Rome. With Marina. After hectic packing and re-packing we got to JFK in plenty of time. Sister Pat introduced Marina to Charlene and Maria; they hit it off immediately, chatting and giggling. The CHS girls are so curious about Marina’s being homeschooled.

It was a nice flight via Alitalia although no room for feet or to rest your head – so I got no sleep. Arrived very tired but we were off on a tour of Rome right away. Crazy weather: sun, clouds, rain, hail – like a cold April. Noticed how the cars are so much smaller here. (Those Smart cars are so cute!) Beautiful piazzas and ancient buildings where people live in apartments. Our walking tour included: Piazza Navona with Bernini’s spectacular fountains, the Fontana del Moro and the Fontana dei Quatro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers). You can check out my daughters blog (see sidebar) for pictures. I loved the church of St. Agnes in this square with its fantastic artwork and decorated ceiling.

Margaret, our tour guide, is so good, leading us through back alleys and clueing us in on bargains and practical advice. Visited the Pantheon and this is just awesome. A 2000 year old structure, completed by the Emperor Hadrian in A.D. 128, it is in great shape and simply breathtaking. It has the largest domed ceiling, larger than St. Peter’s and is a masterpiece of Roman engineering. I liked the opening hole in the center of the dome that lets in light.

Visited the Spanish Steps and thought of my last trip here with my friend Arleen back in 1992. I even went back to one of our old haunts – McDonalds, with a classic Roman motif. Still the only free toilet around! Memorable moments of our first day: Lunch guy giving us a “break” and a gelato; the girls taking pictures with the local carbonieri (state police); the obelisk and Trevi Fountain. All the sculptures are so gorgeous…and huge. My impression of Rome: ancient, beautiful and huge!

My Trip to Italy - Anticipation

Tomorrow we are off to Italy! Thanks to the invitation of my good friend Sister Pat and the Cathedral HS Travel Club. When I return, I will have lots of stories to share. Here is the itinerary:

Rome - A tour as soon as we arrive of the Spanish Steps, which I remember well from my first trip to Italy. Next day, a visit to Vatican City, St. Peter's, and the Sistine Chapel. Then a tour of Imperial Rome and the Colosseum, plus the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon.

Florence - A guided tour of the Piazza della Signoria, Uffizi Palace, the Ponte Vecchio and the Chiesa di Santa Croce. How exciting to see the Duomo, Giotto's campanile (bell tower), and Ghiberti's famous bronze doors, the Gates of Paradise.

Pisa - Of course we will see the Leaning Tower, as well as the cathedral.

Venice - Off to Venice and St. Mark's Square, the Grand Canal, the 324 foot campanile, the famous clock, and the Doges' Palace. We'll also see a glass blowing demonstration. By the way, it's Carnivale!

Assisi - So happy to be visiting the birthplace of St. Francis and St. Clare. We'll see the Basilica of St. Francis with Giotto's wonderful frescoes.

Spoleto - We explore a medieval town and then back to Rome. And next day, we fly back home!

Winter Blahs

This winter is really getting to me. Last week I had trouble opening my car door. The locks freeze when we have a wet snow and de-icer doesn't work. Finally got the passenger door opened and began driving to the train station, when the door flies open. I pulled over and discovered that now, the door wouldn't close! Until I locked it again. When I parked, I couldn't get the door open from inside. I was trapped! So I climbed into the back seat with my heavy coat and boots. It wasn't easy. I am getting too old to be climbing over seats. At last I got one of the back doors open so I could escape. I was so afraid I would not be able to get back into the car that I left it unlocked.

Then I thought. I am really sick of winter and there's still two more months to go. Now I know why seniors (like me) retire to warm climates. Happily, I got the car started for a trip to see "South Pacific" with my friend Pat and her Bronxville senior group on January 21st. More about that later. And even better, I am looking forward to my Italy trip with my granddaughter next week. Hope it's warmer there!